The Ultimate Red Mite Toolbox Guide
If you keep chickens long enough, chances are you'll encounter red mites. Every spring and summer we see a sharp increase in infestations, and they're one of the most common problems affecting backyard flocks across New Zealand.
Although tiny, red mites can have a huge impact on your birds. Heavy infestations can cause stress, anaemia, reduced egg production, weight loss and, in severe cases, even death. The challenge is that they spend most of their lives hiding in the cracks and crevices of the coop, only emerging at night to feed. By the time you notice obvious signs, their numbers have often exploded.
The good news is that red mites can be managed successfully. The key is understanding how they live and following a simple, consistent control plan rather than relying on a single product or treatment.
In this guide, we'll walk you through everything you need to know, from identifying red mites and understanding their life cycle, to choosing the right treatments and preventing them from coming back. Whether you're dealing with your first infestation or looking to improve your prevention strategy, this guide will help you protect your flock throughout red mite season.
How do I know if I have red mites?
Red mites are most active at night, so the easiest way to find them is by inspecting your coop after dark with a torch. Check around perch ends, nest boxes, timber joints, screw holes and cracks. You may see tiny grey mites before they've fed, or bright red mites after they've taken a blood meal. Birds with an infestation may also become restless at night, develop pale combs, lose weight or show a drop in egg production.
Why can't I find any mites during the day?
This is completely normal. Unlike lice, red mites spend very little time on the bird. During daylight hours they hide in cracks and crevices around the coop, only emerging at night to feed before returning to their hiding places by sunrise.
Why do my red mites keep coming back?
Usually because not all of the mites or eggs were eliminated during treatment. Red mites reproduce quickly, and some life stages don't require a blood meal. If even a small number survive in hidden cracks, the population can rebuild within weeks. This is why successful control requires treating both the environment and, where appropriate, the birds, while repeating treatments as recommended.
Do I need to treat the birds as well as the coop?
Not always. Mild infestations may be managed with environmental treatments alone. However, moderate to severe infestations often require treatment of both the birds and their environment. Treating only one usually results in the infestation returning.
How long can red mites survive without chickens?
Red mites are remarkably resilient and can survive for several months without a blood meal under favourable conditions. This means simply removing the birds from the coop is unlikely to eliminate an infestation.
Can red mites bite people?
Yes, although humans are not their preferred host. If mite numbers become very high, they may bite people working in the coop, causing temporary irritation or itching. They cannot establish permanent infestations on humans.
Will cleaning the coop get rid of red mites?
Cleaning is one of the most important steps, but it is rarely enough on its own. While it removes many mites, eggs and organic material, large numbers remain hidden deep within cracks and crevices. Cleaning should always be combined with appropriate environmental treatments.
Which product works best?
There isn't a single product that does everything. The most successful red mite control programs combine thorough cleaning, environmental treatments and, where needed, treatment of the birds. Different products each play a different role, which is why an integrated approach produces the best results.
How often should I check for red mites?
During spring, summer and early autumn, inspect your coop every two to four weeks. Regular monitoring allows you to detect infestations while they're still small and much easier to control.
Can red mites make my chickens sick?
Yes. Heavy infestations can cause significant blood loss, leading to anaemia, weakness, weight loss, poor egg production, stress and reduced immunity. In severe cases, particularly in young or already unwell birds, red mite infestations can be fatal.
Can I prevent red mites?
You can significantly reduce the risk by regularly inspecting your coop, repairing cracks and crevices, maintaining good hygiene, quarantining new birds, checking second-hand equipment before use and acting quickly if mites are detected. Prevention is always easier than treating a large infestation.
Why do treatments sometimes fail?
Treatment failures are usually due to incomplete coverage, missing hidden harbourages, not repeating treatments when required, or only treating either the birds or the environment. Understanding the red mite life cycle and following a complete treatment programme gives the best chance of long-term control.
The 4 Step Red Mite Action Plan
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Step 1. Biosecurity & Prevention
The easiest red mite infestation to treat is the one that never happens. Good biosecurity and regular maintenance can dramatically reduce the risk of mites becoming established in your flock.
Focus on preventing mites from entering your property by:
- Quarantining new birds before introducing them to the flock.
- Inspecting second-hand coops, nest boxes and poultry equipment before bringing them home.
- Minimising contact with wild birds where practical.
- Marine paint surfaces to create a smooth, easy-to-clean finish that also makes red mites easier to spot
- Repairing cracks, gaps and rough timber where mites can hide.
- Keeping the coop dry, clean and well maintained.
- Carrying out preventative environmental treatments during the high-risk spring and summer months if required.
Prevention takes far less time, money and effort than treating a large infestation.
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Step 2. Monitoring & Early Detection
Even the best-managed flocks can develop red mites, which is why regular monitoring is essential. Catching an infestation early is often the difference between a quick clean-up and weeks of treatment.
During spring and summer, inspect your coop every two to four weeks.
Your inspection should include:
- Checking after dark with a torch, paying particular attention to perches, nest boxes, cracks, timber joins and screw holes.
- Using a white paper towel to wipe suspected areas. Crushed mites often leave a red smear.
- Setting up simple monitoring stations near the roost. These can be as simple as a short piece of PVC pipe with wooden dowel inside, or a rolled-up piece of corrugated cardboard. Mites will hide inside during the day, making them easier to find.
- Using sticky monitoring traps, such as carpet tape wrapped around the ends of perches with the sticky side facing out. Mites travelling towards the birds can become trapped on the adhesive.
- Watching your birds for pale combs, reduced egg production, night-time restlessness or reluctance to roost.
The earlier you find red mites, the easier they are to eliminate.
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3. Cleaning & Disinfection
A clean coop is the foundation of any successful control programme.
Regular cleaning removes dirt, organic material and many hiding places, making treatments significantly more effective.
Your cleaning routine should include:
- Removing bedding and organic material.
- Scraping and washing all surfaces.
- Cleaning perches, nest boxes, timber joins, feeders and water bowls.
- Applying an appropriate disinfectant as part of your routine flock hygiene programme. You can learn more about cleaning here
Remember, while disinfectants are important for biosecurity, they are not usually enough to eliminate an established red mite infestation on their own.
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Step 4. Treatment
Once the coop has been cleaned, it's time to reduce the mite population. Successful treatment usually involves targeting both the environment and, where necessary, the birds themselves.
Treat the Environment
Because red mites spend around 90 to 95% of their lives off the bird, environmental treatments are one of the most important parts of any control programme.
Focus on treating:
- Perches and perch ends.
- Nest boxes.
- Cracks and crevices.
- Timber joins.
- Areas where mites have been found during inspections.
Different environmental products work in different ways. Some kill mites on contact, while others provide ongoing residual protection. Following the product directions and ensuring thorough coverage is critical.
Treat the Birds
In moderate to severe infestations, treating the birds may also be necessary.
Products such as Exzolt® (fluralaner) work by killing mites when they feed on the bird, rapidly reducing the breeding population. However, these products do not kill mites hiding within the coop, which is why environmental treatments remain essential.
Repeat if Required
Red mites have multiple life stages, and not all of them feed on blood. This means newly emerging mites can appear after your initial treatment. Depending on the products used, repeat treatments may be required to interrupt the life cycle and achieve long-term control.
Remember, there is no single "magic bullet" for red mites. The best results come from combining good prevention, regular monitoring, thorough cleaning and targeted treatments into one integrated control programme.
Treatment Options
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Exzolt (fluralaner)
What it does: An in-water or direct oral dosed treatment that kills red mites when they feed on the bird.
Best used for: Moderate to severe infestations where mites are well established.
Pros
- One of the most effective red mite treatments available
- Rapidly reduces mite numbers
- No egg withholding period
- Reaches mites that emerge from hiding to feed
- Easy to administer through the drinking water
Cons
- Doesn't kill eggs
- Doesn't treat mites hiding in the environment until they feed
- Should be reserved for significant infestations to help slow the development of resistance
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Green Lightning
What it does: A surfactant-based cleaner that breaks down the mite's protective outer layer, causing dehydration while also helping clean the coop.
Best used for: Cleaning the coop before applying other treatments.
Pros
- Cleans and treats at the same time.
- Non-chemical mode of action.
- Helps remove dirt and organic material.
- Ideal as part of routine cleaning.
Cons
- Requires direct contact with the mites.
- No long-lasting residual protection.
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Banshee
What it does: An environmental spray that targets red mites living in the coop.
Best used for: Treating cracks, crevices, perches and nest boxes after cleaning.
Pros
- Easy to apply
- Targets where mites spend most of their lives
- Excellent for ongoing control
- Smells nice!
Cons
- Good coverage is essential
- Hidden mites may escape treatment
- Requires frequent reapplication to remain effective.
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Bioforce predatory mites
What it does: Introduces beneficial predatory mites that naturally hunt and feed on red mites, helping to reduce their numbers over time.
Best used for: Ongoing control and prevention, particularly in established coops where you want a non-chemical, long-term management strategy.
Pros
- Completely natural form of biological control
- Helps suppress red mite populations over time
- Can reach cracks and crevices that sprays may miss
- No concerns about chemical resistance
- Can be used alongside other integrated control measures
Cons
- Not a quick fix for heavy infestations
- Predator mites require suitable environmental conditions to establish
- Results take longer to become noticeable than chemical treatments
- Best suited as part of an integrated control programme rather than as a standalone treatment
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Osmoslay
What it does: A surfactant-based treatment that breaks down the red mite's protective outer layer, causing the mites to lose moisture and dehydrate.
Best used for: Environmental treatment of coops, particularly after cleaning, to reduce mite numbers on contact.
Pros
- Non-insecticidal mode of action
- Effective against mites it comes into direct contact with
- Low risk of resistance developing
- Can be incorporated into routine cleaning and prevention programmes
- Suitable for repeated use as part of an integrated control plan
Cons
- Requires direct contact with the mites to be effective
- No long-lasting residual activity
- Thorough application is essential, particularly in cracks and crevices where mites hide
- May require repeat applications as new mites emerge
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Diatomaceous Earth
What it does: A silica-based abrasive powder made from the fossilised remains of microscopic aquatic organisms called diatoms. It damages the mite's protective outer layer, causing dehydration.
Best used for: We generally don't recommend routine use around birds due to the inhalation risk.
Pros
- Non-insecticidal mode of action
- Resistance is unlikely
- Remains effective while dry
Cons
- Fine silica dust can irritate the lungs of both birds and people
- Repeated exposure to respirable crystalline silica can contribute to serious lung disease, including silicosis
- Loses effectiveness when wet
- Requires direct contact with mites
- Often overused in coops and dust baths
In Summary: The Red Mite Toolbox
Red Mite Essentials
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Exzolt | Poultry Red Mite Treatment for Chickens & Backyard Flocks
Regular price From $15.00 NZDRegular price -
Banshee Red Mite Solution for Poultry & Birds – 240ml
Regular price $42.50 NZDRegular price -
Green Lightning | Heavy Duty Cleaner & Sanitiser
Regular price From $39.00 NZDRegular price -
Osmoslay Ultra-Concentrate | Poultry Red Mite & Pest Control
Regular price $39.50 NZDRegular price
